On to Rose Island and Southern Bahamas
By the time sunrise was a glow on the horizon the wind had finally settled. We made a quick breakfast and hauled in the anchor, glad to leave this lagoon. We were well sheltered here, but after three days of anchor watch we were ready to move on.
The salt accumulating on the window may be visible here
We take Second Star north over the top of Stirrup Cay, past the cruise ships waiting for the return of the cruise industry, and start heading south. Twenty miles later we pass our bailout point, which would have taken us to the realm of pristine anchorages we departed four days ago. Now we are commited to an open water passage in total of about 70 miles that will put us on the Exuma Bank and start our tour of the southern Bahamas.
The wind has dropped from storm conditions but is still aggressive. We start out the day with two reefs in the main sail to keep wind forces reasonable in the rig. The storm has left large waves that we must also contend with. At times the larger waves break over the boat putting many gallons of water on the windows and saloon roof. This water drains off quickly, but there is near constant flow of saltwater across the decks.
After lunch the wind abates a bit and Brent moves the main sail from reef 2 to reef 1 to help sustain speed. Then the wind returns powerfully and Second Star is bounding through the waves at 13 knots. While exhilerating there are huge stresses in the rig. Spray flies nearly continually over the boat, which wakes Lois from her nap. So we stuff the boat up into the wind to drop some speed and go back to reef 2.
In the final mile the water depth comes up from a few thousand feet to 15 feet as we slip through the narrow space between two hard rock reefs. Then a quick turn to the east directly into the shelter of Rose Island. Nassau, the capital city of the Bahamas, is clearly visible only a few miles to the west. Second Star is covered in a salt glaze from all the spray, but we pull into the anchorage with plenty of daylight to pick our way through the coral heads.
The waters here are beautifully clear. It is a special joy for the boat to be nearly still after all the movement today and on previous stormy nights. Sleep comes easily after a well lived day.
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